Solitude in South Island, New Zealand

Exploring the Abel Tasman Coastal Trail

 

 

Hiking, or ‘tramping’, is a popular activity in New Zealand.  Beautiful beaches, snow capped peaks, and clear blue streams all can be found inside the country’s national park system.  The Abel Tasman National Park, located on the remote northwest corner of the south island, is often missed by tourists.  My solitary experience of walking the 32 mile (51km) coastal trail and seeing hardly anyone except Mother Nature herself was an amazing experience.

It should be noted that the coastal trail, while well-maintained, offers little in the way of facilities or mobile phone coverage.  Walkers should be prepared with food and drink, proper footwear, cold/wet weather gear, and first aid supplies.  You must also carry a map and research coastal tides prior to departure in order to complete the length of the route safely.  
My route took me from south to north, which is the most common and easiest to link in with public transport; there are other combinations you might find more suitable.  

Department of Conservation huts are the only accommodation available in most parts of the park; they must be booked well in advance, especially in summer, and they are minimally appointed so be sure to pack appropriately.  They have showers and toilets but no hot water.  The huts do have kitchens but without any gas/electric, cutlery, pans, or other necessities – you will need to bring it all with you.  Sleeping arrangements are bunk beds; take a sleeping bag and a pillow.  

Getting there is the first challenge.  Most fly direct into Christchurch from Australia or Auckland.  If you are travelling from Wellington there is a ferryservice to Picton.  From either Picton or Christchurch you will need to take a bus to Nelson – known as the ‘gateway to Abel Tasman’ – or to Mouteka, which lies near the edge of the park.  I prefer Nelson as there is plenty of accommodation choice, reasonably priced supermarkets, and a few good restaurants.  Many of the hostels in Nelson will rent out any essential provisions you may have forgotten.

Another bus will take you to the start of the route, a raised walkway in Marahau.  Upon departing from here, the trail soon heads uphill and into forest, although the path remains steady and clear at all times.  In no time at all, you will feel as if civilization has been left completely behind.   The track is lined with various types of ferns, including the silver fern, a widely used symbol of New Zealand.

Your first decision point comes high along the path above a tidal estuary near Anchorage Bay and Torrent Bay.  There are plenty of beaches to be explored further along, so unless you are spending the night here, I suggest the high route where you can see more luscious greenery and find several suitable places to lunch.    This direction turns decidedly inwards and upwards, offering wonderful vistas before heading downward into Bark Bay.   After dropping off your gear at the hut, head straight for the beach.  The golden sand and crystal blue waters never felt so good after a long day of walking.  

Leaving Bark Bay, the route is at first quite steep, and then levels out.  The water starts to become even clearer, the sand more golden, and the forests more green.  As there are few kayakers beyond Bark Bay, your views are only interrupted by a seal or passing water taxi.  Tonga Beach, with its golden-yellow sands, is a great lunch stop but this is a tidal crossing so be sure to plan ahead.  

Further beyond, you will cross a chain-link suspension bridge – not for the light of heart, but it is the only way across.  Awaroa is a natural stopping point due to the estuary and the plentiful accommodation.  Huts are available here as well as the Awaroa Lodge, a luxury hotel complete with restaurant.  Be sure to have a meal at the hotel, as the food is delicious and the bar is well-stocked, including Kiwi wines and beer.  Awaroa’s white, pristine beach is covered with thousands of intricate and colorful seashells.

Leaving Awaroa requires good timing as this is the deepest of tidal crossings along the trail – the ground is covered with shells so do not go barefoot.  Afterwards it is an easy trek to Totaranui, where you can buy yourself an ice cream in the caravan park or relax on the beach.  There is also the option to spend the night here but I suggest continuing north to Whariwharangi where you can experience the exhilaration of reaching the end of the world – although it is just the end of the south island, as well as the end of the coastal trail.

Although you might not be in a rush to get back to civilization, it’s good to know your options.  From Whariwharangi you can take the Abel Tasman inland trail, which is another 23 miles (37.5 km) back to Marahau.  Otherwise you will need to head back to Totaranui for a water taxi or coach service back to Marahau and then any onward destination.