Enjoy the slow life on this Bay Island off of Honduras
ime really does slow down on an island, which is hard to comprehend for those of us caught up in the fast paced
pressure cooker of modern society, but it’s the single thing I enjoy most about the island life. The smaller the island, the slower the pace, and the first one I visited was also the tiniest I’ve been to, but it was just this smallness that made it such a special place. In the southern Caribbean Ocean, just north of the Central American nation ofHonduras are the Bay Islands, a string of three small tropical islands, of which westernmost Utila is the smallest.Known in backpacker circles as a great, cheap place to get your scuba diving certification, Utila offers little more to do, but plenty to enjoy. Like the other Bay Islands, Utila is reached by a short ferry ride from the mainland coastal city of La Ceiba. Unlike the rest of Honduras, English is more widely spoken than Spanish, and the native inhabitants are primarily Garifuna, descendants of Black Caribs, giving it a much different feel than the rest of the country. Tourism has become the primary source of income, and Honduras recently made Utila a tax-free zone to encourage its further development, as well as standardizing scuba diving rates (read this as get there now before it gets overdeveloped).
Arriving at the docks is a mellow affair, with few or no hawkers, so take your time walking the several blocks of accommodations and dive shops before choosing. The main road goes in both directions along the coast as well as going straight ahead to the uninhabited North side of the island, where the road literally just ends at an empty beach. Most people come for the diving, and there are several places that offer free dives, dive courses and accommodation. We stayed at Cross Creek, one of the larger hotels and dive centers, and signed up for the beginning PADI dive certification course.Like most inexpensive dive centers, Cross Creek is a magnet for traveling young people from around the world, either learning to dive, or master divers plying their trade. We stayed in the clean and sparse hotel, which was a single row of small rooms with fans and small beds, fronted by an open terrace perfect for hanging hammocks and lounging. There is a restaurant and bar on site, which the dive masters are required to work at to earn their keep, but often was not open. The dive course involves classroom training a couple hours each evening, and diving from about 6 to 1 each morning, including quite of bit of prep time getting the gear ready and cleaning it when you return. The remainder of the time we were free to explore the island, although often exhausted from the rigors of diving.
Utila was hot, really hot, probably the hottest place I had ever been to that point. By the end of the first day, I was walking everywhere shirtless and had given up trying to protect against the sand fly bites that now covered my body. The heat is really what creates the slowness of island life though, and you can’t really have one without the other. A siesta is normally taken in the midday, as it’s really too hot to do anything and much of the activity is in the relatively cooler mornings and evenings.
Fresh seafood and simple ingredients are the staples of the food on Utila. Most of the restaurants are single person affairs,
ranging from a person’s home to a slightly larger restaurant with several tables. At some of the smaller places, there may only be one item, whatever was fresh and available that day. One of my favorite places like this was Xijing restaurant, with four shaded outside tables, and such tasty dishes as rice and beans, barracuda with fries, or if you time it just right, you can get some sweet rice, made with coconut milk, cinnamon, and sugar in a ten gallon vat over an open flame, and gone within half an hour. Other staples of the island include fried chicken, grouper, tuna and conch. Almost everything is accompanied by salad or fries (papas fritas). Dinner will cost you less than 5 USD with beer. Baked goods are a favorite at breakfast on the island, and if you’re up for a challenge, you have to find Taracina, a woman with a shack in the middle of nowhere offering the best Pan de Coco around, definitely worth seeking out.Outside of eating, diving and relaxing in your hammock, there is deliciously little to do. You can take the single track dirt road to the Northern side of the island, which is a couple hours walk through quiet palm trees and woods, to an empty beach on the other side. There is a primitive Iguana research station that you can visit, or volunteer at and stay a while, and help protect the spiny tailed Utila Iguana. There are some small cays to the Southwest that can be visited in your spare time. You can hang out with fellow travelers and discover many things about the world. Other than that, enjoy the sunsets, and the lack of excitement. It’s what makes any island special, reminding us of what is really important in life. Be careful though, because you may not want to come back.
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