Alpine Adventure in Isaba, Spain

I've always been drawn to Alpine landscapes, starting with a brief stay in the Black Forest of Southern Schwabia, and continuing today with my adopted home in Vermont.  So when we were planning a trip to Northern Spain, the Pyrenees just had to be on the list.  The Pyrenees mountain range straddles the border of Spain and France running between the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean.  Small isolated villages straddle the imaginary border on both sides, and a patchwork of trails meander through many of them.

On the French side, there is a major trail running the whole distance called the GR10, and on the Spanish side, a similar path is called the GR11.  Many other small offshoots of these trails wind through the area as well.  Hiking the full trail requires about a month and a half, and it's critical to have good maps and guidebooks.  The best guidebooks I found were the Cicerone guides, written by a Paul Lucia, a recently deceased man who spent many years walking and documenting the trails.  These can be hard to find, as they are out of the U.K., and they don't seem to print many, but the search is worth it.

While it was our original intent to make a multi-day trek along the GR11, several things got in the way.  First, it was too early in the year (early May), and most of the snow was still on the mountain tops,.  Peaks that might have otherwise only required a sturdy pair of boots, would require ice and snow gear as well.  Second, we weren't there long enough and while there are parts of the trail that lend themselves to village hopping, the section we had targeted didn't, and we weren't on holiday long enough to make lugging camping gear worthwhile.

Thus it was that we ended up choosing the less strenuous approach of basing ourselves in the town of Isaba, and doing day trips from there.  Isaba sits at the top of the famous Roncal valley, up a scenic road following the river Balagua through several other small villages (including Roncal, the valley's namesake), and only a few kilometers from the French Border at Pas d'Arlas.  The town clearly has a thriving tourist trade, with a large parking lot and tons of small pensions called casas rurales offering rooms.  Since this was neither ski season (there is a ski resort at the French border up the road), nor yet high hiking season, it was mostly us and the locals.

Isaba is a charming and romantic village, with narrow cobblestone streets, Alpine style houses with lots of stone walls, exposed beams and brightly adorned flower boxes.  Little bodegas selling wine and staples sit alongside bakeries, butchers and fromageries.  Language and cuisine aside, you could drop this village into Alsace or Bavaria and no one would be the wiser.  We stayed at one of the casas rurales, called Catalangarde, which was perfectly picturesque, had a balcony overlooking the town, and was otherwise well appointed.

The first morning we hiked west out of the town on the GR11, which was well marked, as well as having a detailed map where the path crosses the main road in town.  The trail led through a beautiful mountain church (San Cipriano) and then onto a series of fairly steep switchbacks for several kilometers.  As we neared the top, we turned the corner and before us lay pristine alpine grass meadows dotted with grazing cows, rolling hills, and spectacular views of the snowcapped peaks of the Pyrenees in the distance.  I couldn't imagine a more perfect spot for a picnic of bread, wine and cheese picked up at the shops that morning.  On the way back down, a church service was going on, and while we're not particularly religious, a local service in such a setting was somehow satisfying.

The next day, we headed up the road by car towards the French Border.  While the pass was actually closed due to snow, we managed to climb pretty close, affording us spectacular views looking back down the valley.   Pastures were dotted with sheep, and farms advertised the famous Queso de Roncal, made fresh just steps from the source.  Our final hike in the area came recommended and was accessed on the road back to Isaba in a "Rest Area" for lack of a better term.  This loop hike only took a few hours, but was flat and afforded great views of the surrounding mountains and countryside.

In the end, our trip to the Pyrenees was as much about relaxing as hiking.  The hiking was breathtaking, and it would definitely be worth spending more time on the trails.  However, the town itself was the star for me, with its medieval charm and character, and a slow pace that's just part of a daily life in the mountains of Spain.

Experience the slow life in the Spanish Pyrenees

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Famous Glaciers of the World

Are you planning your next adventurous retreat? Why not consider hiking in some of the most scenic and beautiful glaciers our planet has to offer. Here are a few of the famous glaciers of the world that you can choose from.
Read more at Buzzle: http://www.buzzle.com/articles/famous-glaciers-of-the-world.html

 

 

Did You Know?
An estimated 75 percent of the world's freshwater supply is locked in glacial ice.
Glaciers around the world attract a lot of tourists throughout the year. Long stretches of pristine, white landscapes and tranquil air is indeed enchanting and spellbinding. For a long time, glaciers have captured the fantasy of the adventure-seeking travelers, but in recent times, they have been in headlines for all the wrong reasons. In the past few years, global warming has raised serious concerns about the depletion of the Earth's glacial regions. Due to the rise in overall temperature of our planet over the last decade, glacial ice is melting at a rapid pace, and as a result, these blankets of ice are receding.
Famous Glaciers to Visit While You Can
Among the most amazing natural wonders of Earth are the mighty glaciers―calm and benign at one point of time, while ruthless and treacherous at another. Slowly, they creep downwards from the high mountain terrains to the lowlands, and cover enormous expanses of the polar regions. For millions and millions of years, these glaciers have been forming and melting, and have, thus, shaped some of the finest landscapes that Earth has. Despite their unpredictable moods, people have been fascinated by the beauty of these serenely white sheets of ice that cover enormous landmasses, and have been drawn towards them time and again. If you are one of these curious nature enthusiasts and/or adventure-seekers, we, at Buzzle, have compiled for you, a brief list of some of the most famous and beautiful glaciers around the world.
Lambert Glacier
Location: East Antarctica
Type: Valley Glacier
◼ Home to hundreds of awe-inspiring glaciers, Antarctica also comprises the world's largest glacier―the Lambert Glacier―which measures approximately 60 miles wide, 250 miles long, and about 1.5 miles deep.
◼ Considered to be very important for the study of climate change, it drains about 8% of the Antarctic Ice Sheet― the world's largest ice sheet, covering an area of 14,000,000 sq km―until it eventually reaches the Amery Ice Shelf, which is, in fact, only a seaward extension of the Lambert.
◼ The Amery Ice Shelf is particularly interesting, in that it comprises some of the most rarely found bottlegreen-colored icebergs, which, according to scientists, get their color from the large amount of organic matter that they contain.
Tourism: Lambert Glacier lies in an extremely isolated part of Antarctica, owing to which it is not very easy to reach there. It requires a long and an expensive voyage. Moreover, the overall stay on the continent also involves a lot of expenses. Tourists rarely visit this glacier, and according to Lonely Planet, a maximum of two tourist ships sail to the place in a year.
Vatnajökull Glacier
Country: Iceland
Type: Ice Cap
◼ Ranking high among the largest glaciers of Europe, the Vatnajökull, a.k.a Vatna Glacier, is also the most voluminous one in Iceland.
◼ Covering a total area of 8,100 sq km, this iceberg actually forms the largest ice cap, not only in the whole of Europe, but also outside the polar regions.
◼ Covering around 8% of Iceland's total area, the Vatnajökull Glacier has several active volcanoes underneath it.
Tourism: The glacier forms part of the Vatnajökull National Park, one of the major tourist spots in southeast Iceland. Tourists are allowed to take guided scenic hikes on the glacier.
Perito Moreno Glacier
Country: Argentina
Type: Tidewater Glacier
◼ Named after the explorer Francisco Moreno, the Perito Moreno Glacier is one of the major tourist attractions in the Argentine Patagonia.
◼ Spread over an area of 250 sq km, and stretching over 30 km in length, it forms part of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, the third largest freshwater reserve in the world.
◼ This glacier is one of three Patagonian glaciers that is expanding, however, the reasons for this are debated by glaciologists.
Tourism: Located in the Los Glaciares National Park in southwest Santa Cruz province of Argentina, this glacier is one of the major tourist attractions. Owing to its easy accessibility, several walking and trekking tours of the glacier have gained popularity in recent times. Several tour companies organize these tours for people.
Furtwängler Glacier
Country: Tanzania
Type: Mountain Glacier
◼ Situated on the cap of Mt. Kilimanjaro, Furtwängler is the most famous glacier in Africa. Over the last century, most of the glacial ice has disappeared. What remains today is just 12% of what used to crown the peaks of Mt. Kilimanjaro a century ago.
◼ The disappearance of the glacier has raised huge concern among environmentalists and glaciologists, and it is said that at the current rate of retreat, the glacier might disappear by the year 2020.
◼ In 2010, the journal Global and Planetary Change published a study about Furtwängler's retreat, which said that deforestation activities in the lower slopes of Mouth Kilimanjaro is resulting in the reduction of the flow of moisture up towards its summit. This is the main reason why the glacier is melting at a fast pace.
Tourism: Mount Kilimanjaro, over which the glacier rests, is part of the Kilimanjaro National Park. Tourists are allowed to hike to the summit of the mountain, and also to camp right next to the glacier.
Pasterze Glacier
Country: Austria
Type: Mountain Glacier
◼ One of the major tourist attractions in Austria, the Pasterze Glacier is not only the longest glacier in Austria, but also in the eastern Alps.
◼ It is around 8.5 km in length, with an area of 18.5 sq km, however, it is now retreating rapidly at the rate of 10 m every year.
◼ There is no doubt that the glacier is melting due to global warming, however, its retreat also turns our attention towards the fragility of the Alpine ecosystems.
Tourism: The glacier lies right beneath Austria's largest mountain, Grossglockner, and hence, is very popular among hikers. The funicular railway that takes tourists to the glacier is also a major attraction in the region.
Yulong Glacier
Country: China
Type: Mountain Glacier
◼ Part of Mount Yulong, popularly known as the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, the Yulong Glacier is situated on the mountain's summit.
◼ It is among the most difficult glaciers to climb because of its altitude, and hence, it is popular among seasoned mountaineers who are looking for a challenging hike.
◼ Yulong Glacier is also retreating since the 1980s, and many Chinese scientists predict that it might be gone in another 50 years time.
Tourism: Apart from the adventure-seekers, Mount Yulong and it's glacial summit also attract a large number of sightseers. People can go up to the peak by cable cars to see some of the most awe-inspiring views of the surrounding areas.
Fox Glacier
Country: New Zealand
Type: Mountain Glacier
◼ Named in 1872 after the then Prime Minister of New Zealand, Sir William Fox, the Fox Glacier is one of the most popular and easily accessible glaciers in New Zealand.
◼ Situated in the West Coast region of New Zealand's South Island, it is 13 km in length, and has been expanding since the year 1985.
◼ What makes this glacier stand apart is that fact that it is one of those few of them, which terminate in the lush rainforests.
Tourism: The glacier has been promoted as a major tourist spot in New Zealand. Alongside guided and unguided excursions on and around the glacier, people are also seen taking helicopter rides and engaging in skydiving.
Franz Josef Glacier
Country: New Zealand
Type: Mountain Glacier
◼ Just 25 km away from the Fox Glacier is another famous glacier of New Zealand, the Franz Josef. Named after the Austrian Emperor Franz Josef I, it runs over a stretch of 12 km, and is the steepest glacier in the country.
◼ It is located just 300 meters above the sea level, and terminates, like the Fox Glacier, amidst the lush green beauty of a temperate rainforest.
◼ The region that surrounds both these glaciers is part of the Te Wāhipounamu, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, that encompasses three national parks.
Tourism: Another major tourist attraction of the West Coast, this site offers several picturesque views of the region. Guided and unguided tours of the glacier are possible, however, of late, owing to its unstable terminal face, helicopter rides are encouraged more than walking excursions.
Mendenhall Glacier
Country: The United States
Type: Mountain Glacier
◼ This 12-mile long glacier is situated in the Mendenhall Valley in the Juneau Borough in Alaska. Along with its surrounding landscape, the glacier forms part of a protected area, called the Mendenhall Glacier Recreation Area that falls under a federally designated unit of the Tongass National Forest.
◼ Recent data proves that the Mendenhall has been retreating, and will continue to do so in the foreseeable future, owing to the continuously increasing global temperature.
◼ However, the law of unintended consequences seems to have worked well in case of this glacier. The glacier's recession has resulted in the formation of the Mendenhall Lake, which has been growing since 1931. The lake is a unique ecosystem in itself, and has grown to become a popular location for sport fishing.
Tourism: The Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center is being operated near the site by the United States Forest Service, which offers several educational programs for adults and children all through the year. The visitor center also houses a restaurant, a library, a souvenir shop, and a small museum. Several guided trails of the glacier are also offered.
Athabasca Glacier
Country: Canada
Type: Ice Field
◼ One of the most visited glaciers in North America, this glacier is 6 km long, covering an area of around 2.3 sq miles, but is said to be receding at the rate of 3 m every year.
◼ The glacier is located very close to the Icefields Parkway, between the towns of Jasper and Banff in the Canadian province of Alberta. Owing to this, it is more easily accessible.
◼ Traveling to the glacier unequipped is not recommended, and in the past the glacier's hidden crevasses have actually resulted in deaths of some of the tourists.
Tourism: The Icefield Interpretive Center is located near the site, which offers guided sightseeing of the glacier. There is also a sightseeing tour ticket counter in the Center. Visitors can reach the edge of the glacier by standard buses, after which they have to take the special snow coaches, in order to climb upwards. Entry to the glacier is closed in winter, from mid-October to mid-April.
Hubbard Glacier
Country: The United States, Canada
Type: Tidewater Glacier
◼ Located in eastern Alaska and the Yukon territory of Canada, the Hubbard Glacier is one of the fast expanding glaciers, and also one of the most popular attractions in North America.
◼ Stretching over a length of 122 km, the Hubbard Glacier, is the largest tidewater glacier on the North American continent. It offers a sight to behold, but trekking on the glacier is not allowed.
◼ Research tells us that the ice that lies at the foot of the glacier is about 400 years old. Moreover, it is a known fact that the Hubbard constantly calves off colossal icebergs, some even as tall as ten-storied buildings.
Tourism: Though trekking on this glacier is not allowed as mentioned earlier, tourists can take helicopter tours of the Hubbard and see some immensely captivating views. Walking tours are available, but these need special permissions and a professional guide.
Jostedalsbreen Glacier
Country: Norway
Type: Mountain Glacier
◼ Spread over an area of around 487 sq km, and about 60 km long, Jostedalsbreen Glacier is the largest glacier in continental Europe.
◼ It is a part of the Jostedalsbreen National Park that was established in the year 1991, and covers over 50% of the total area of the park.
◼ The glacier does display high melting rates in its snouts. However, despite rising temperature, the high rate of snowfall that the region experiences is the source of the considerable amount of ice that the glacier still holds.
Tourism: Hiking is allowed on the Jostedalsbreen Glacier, however, guided hikes are encouraged more in the area. There is also a visitors' center in the vicinity, that houses a small exhibition regarding the National Park, its geology, flora and fauna.
Aletsch Glacier
Country: Switzerland
Type: Valley Glacier
◼ Aletsch Glacier is the largest glacier on the Swiss Alps, covering an area of 120 sq km, and spread over a length of around 24 km.
◼ The glacier is a part of the Jungfrau-Aletsch Protected Area, which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the year 2001.
◼ This mighty glacier actually comprises three smaller glaciers, which meet each other at Concordia. Past this point, the Aletsch continues towards the Rhone Valley until it gives birth to the Massa River.
Tourism: While guided trekking and walking tours are available for the adventure-seekers, the glacier is no less attractive for the sightseeing enthusiasts as well. They can take a cable car, and witness some of the most spellbinding views of the glacier and surrounding areas.
Langjökull Glacier
Country: Iceland
Type: Ice Cap
◼ Langjökull Glacier, which literally translates to 'long glacier', is the second-largest glacier in Iceland, only after the Vatnajökull Glacier. Spread over an area of around 953 sq km, it is approximately parallel to Iceland's active volcano zone, and is surrounded by some smaller glaciers and mountain ranges.
◼ Though this glacier is large in size, it is interesting to note that it is not a source of many rivers. In fact, according to research, numerous hot springs in the Borgarfjörður region, receive their groundwater from this very glacier.
◼ However, according to research, this glacier is repleting rapidly, and according to glaciologists, it will completely disappear in the next 150 years.
Tourism: The region around the glacier is sparsely populated, and there is also not much tourist influx in the region. However, certain guided climbing excursions of the glacier are available.
Baltoro Glacier
Country: Pakistan
Type: Mountain Glacier
◼ Located in the Karakoram mountain range in Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan, the Baltoro Glacier is 62 km long, which makes it one of the longest glaciers, not situated in a polar regions.
◼ Some of the most famous mountain ranges in the world, including the K1 and the K2 stand in the vicinity of this glacier, thus, also making it one of the most famous tourist destinations.
◼ Many of the glacial streams, which rise on the Baltoro during summer, are known to flow freely during the day, and to freeze overnight.
Tourism: Tourists indulge in mountaineering and trekking excursions on the Baltoro glacier, however, it is regularly patrolled by the Pakistan army, owing to some regional tensions.
Portage Glacier
Country: The United States
Type: Mountain Glacier
◼ A part of the Chugach National Forest, Portage Glacier is situated in the state of Alaska in the United States. It stretches over a length of nearly 10 km, but recent stats show that it is retreating.
◼ Now located south of the Portage Lake, the glacier is known to have been filling the entire Portage Valley, some 100 years ago.
◼ According to studies, the glacier was initially much larger than it is now. But, with the passage of time, it broke up to form what are now five separate glaciers.
Tourism: In 1986, the United States Forest Service opened the Begich/Boggs Visitor Center near the glacier. However now, owing to its depletion, the glacier can no longer be seen from there. Tourists have to hire a commercial boat across the lake in order to seen the Portage.
Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve
Occupying the northernmost portion of the southeastern Alaska coastline, between the Gulf of Alaska and Canada, the Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve is an American national park that spreads over the land area of 3,223,384 acres.
Home to a large glacier, now repleting at a rapid pace, this national park is a major tourist spot in Alaska. The park offers several excursions, alongside activities such as sport hunting and sport fishing.
Read more at Buzzle: http://www.buzzle.com/articles/famous-glaciers-of-the-world.html

Relaxing Weekend Getaways

A vacation doesn't need to be expensive or elaborate to give you the much-needed break from the stress of your everyday routine. Sometimes, simple, yet unique relaxing weekend getaways prove to be more relaxing than a fortnight spent traveling in another continent.
Read more at Buzzle: http://www.buzzle.com/editorials/1-24-2005-64740.asp

 

Weekends are saviors. They are like the oasis you come across in an otherwise arid desert. They save us from constant functioning, and give us timeout to sit back and relax. Those of you who don't take the advantage of this opportunity, are doing nothing less than committing a crime. Your mind and your body, both need this cushioning. If I could, I would plan all my weekends right at the start of the year. No seriously, after all the work you put yourself through, for 5 straight days a week, you deserve as much relaxation as possible during the weekends. One way to make sure you do so, is to plan a relaxing getaway. Several ideas are presented below; take your pick!
Monthly retreats should be planned so that there is some regularity to escaping from the daily grind.
8 Great Ideas to Plan a Relaxing Weekend
Before we take a look at what you can do, there are a few things you should avoid completely. Don't zero in on an idea that involves a lot of driving. Also, do not exert yourself so much, that you need to seek relaxation during the week. Whichever idea you choose, make sure you indulge in activities in moderation.
Beach Delight
Especially in the winter months, if you live near the beach, driving there can be relaxing - even if the trip is just for the day. The beaches aren't crowded and they can be an excellent place for a meditative or invigorating walk. Look for interesting shells that you may not see during an "in-season" beach trip. Pack a picnic lunch and spread out the beach towel. Allowing your mind to take the proverbial "deep breath" is an important part of a mini-retreat. Stop yourself from thinking about work or the things you have wanted to do during this time. Make yourself comfortable on the sand, and stare into the nothingness that lies in front of you!
The Mountains
Live near the mountains? To plan this mini vacation, see if there's an upcoming mountain festival, fair, or special tour event, and make plans to attend it. Contact local rafting companies to see if they offer rafting or canoeing trips. Ask the locals about interesting places to hike. If you don't have time for all this, just take a tent, light a small campfire and sleep under the stars. Pack some food and whether with company or without, this getaway will definitely be a calming experience.
Town Tour
Another opportunity for a day trip is to visit a neighboring town, especially one you've not spent time in before. Change locations just for a day! Explore the town - drive down main street, park your car, and just stroll around visiting local shops. Ask around to find a good local restaurant and have dinner there, instead of at a chain you're familiar with. Often the most memorable meals are enjoyed at unique places off the beaten path. Don't have time for this research? All you need to do, to plan this cheap mini getaway, is make a list of places you haven't visited in your own town, and set off! Sometimes, spending time in unknown places gives you the satisfaction of breaking away from the mundane.
Theme Parks
You can plan a mini-vacation to an amusement park without having to pay exorbitant fares for the same. For this, you would have to do some research and watch for the best deals they have to offer on their websites. Theme parks also offer special discounts for students, military officials, and certain membership clubs like AAA and AARP. Packing your own food and drinking water can save you a few bucks, and also spare you from the hazards of sugary, chilled sodas. Planning this relaxing weekend getaway in advance will give you more time to look at options.
Park Picnic
Think you're not getting enough time to spend with your loved one? Is the competitive world today not giving you time to share those few moments of love? Well, all you need then, is a simple weekend spent in one of the numerous parks that adorn our planet. Inquire about the various parks and parkways that border your city. Check in at a hotel near the park you select. Spend the entire two days at the park over a packed lunch and with all those things you never had the time to share. Make the most of this weekend with your partner.
Resorts and Spas
When you have just about an hour to plan your weekend getaway, a resort or spa nearby is your best bet. Look for a resort that has a spa, and spend the weekend rejuvenating yourself. If visiting the spa means you have to drive, book a cab and avoid the driving. Want company? Ask one of your girlfriends. Spend two days amidst intoxicating aromas, calming massages, and some great therapy.
Wine Tasting
Wine tasting is an experience in itself. If you have the taste for good wine, you can go to a vineyard nearby and try out some great liquor. Some vineyards take you through the entire process. Here, you can learn about tasting from the experts themselves, try pigeage (grape stomping), see how wine is stored and other things that go into the making of wine. Wine manufacturers all over the world, keep sending samples to different vineyards that in turn offer it to the public for opinion. Most vineyards also have accommodation facilities.
Yachting
Yachting on a lake can be one of the most relaxing and romantic getaways. You can either rent a yacht and sail it yourself, or hire someone to do so. Every country that offers such recreation, has compulsory certifications that you need to attain before you sail on your own. Sail amidst serene waters and let the freshness rejuvenate your senses. Spend the night star gazing and let the calm environment offer you the solace that is amiss in your daily routine.
Retreats such as these, just like vacations, offer a chance to relax, regroup, recoup, and renew. But they don't have to be spectacular events that require months of planning or reservations in advance. Whether they are week-long, day or overnight trips, it's important to get away at least once a month, from the regular routine and do something different. Be creative and have a happy retreat!
Read more at Buzzle: http://www.buzzle.com/editorials/1-24-2005-64740.asp

Classic Cairo

Explore the Egyptian capital and forget the tour bus

 

 

When my friend suggested that our next biannual trip be Egypt, I have to admit I wasn’t overly excited at the idea.  I mean, I love the food and the ancient and exotic cultures of the Middle East, but I also had visions of swarms of tourists driving past the Sphinx in their air conditioned buses.  To mitigate the imagined crowds, we chose to go in March, after the high season ends, and our plan worked beautifully.  I found Cairo to be very calm and relaxing, sort of like life is a warm summer day over and over, its people stoic but shy, and aside from the truly famous things like the Pyramids at Giza, we encountered very few tourists.

We stayed in the Ezbekieh quarter of the city, about twenty miles east of the Nile and the tourist strip, close to the peaceful Ezbekieh Gardens, Opera House, Central Railway Station, and downtown commercial drag.   Walking around the immediate hotel area was extremely pleasant, with a marked absence of touts, a plethora of coffee houses (ahwe), and local places to eat.  The coffee houses are filled with men at outdoor sidewalk tables, enjoying sheesha (waterpipes), shai ala bosta (tea) and a game of dominoes, watching football (Champion’s League was going on) or just talking.  Women are rarely seen in the coffee house, but otherwise are plentiful on the streets, some wearing the hijab and some not.

The sheesha are hookahs with water in the base, flavored hot coals in a metal bowl on top, and multiple hoses for patrons to draw on.  Packaged plastic tips for the hoses are provided, and properly done, smoke is inhaled and blown out the nose slowly.  The hot coals are infused with traditional or apple flavored tobacco in a special cooker, and stoking the hot coals is a serious art.  The tea is sweet and refreshing, but make sure you ask for shai ala bosta, as otherwise, you are apt to be given a lipton tea bag instead of the wonderful black tea served with granulated sugar and a sprig of fresh mint (nana) that really enhances the experience.

From the street carts to the communal restaurants, the food was wonderful.  Alcohol was not served anywhere, except one tourist restaurant we ended up at.  There was actually a liquor store around the corner from our hotel, but buying beer and smuggling it back to our hotel felt oddly inappropriate here. Primarily we either had kebab of some kind from street vendors, or one of our favorite experiences was at a typical restaurant near our hotel, where they didn’t produce any food, but rather, provided a menu of all kinds of things, which a runner then went and got from one of the street vendors.  We had some of the best falafel (tammiyya) that I ever had, made right next door on a large round griddle, as well as several staples like tahini and baba ganouj.   English was very rarely spoken, and often the menus were in script anyways, so eating was a challenging but rewarding experience, and fantastic for a vegetarian.

The Khan el-Khalili is a very large market in Old Cairo, with miles of vendors selling everything from rugs and spices to household wares on narrow unpaved streets clogged with throngs of people.  Haggling is the norm, but most things are very cheap by Western standards.  Near the market is the beautiful Al-Azhar Mosque.  The walls and chambers were Spartan or adorned with beautiful tile work and rugs, but far less pretentious than their Western church counterparts.  Behind the mosque was a neighborhood of small streets, too small for cars, and as we got progressively further in, there was a feeling of danger confirmed by several people who basically told us to go back, which we did.  Whether this was just a dangerous part of town like all cities have, or a seat of fundamentalism (and hatred of the West) was unclear, but it was the only time we felt nervous in Egypt.

As we found everywhere in Egypt, our interaction with the locals was limited, both by language and possibly our status as infidels.  Aside from a few friendly conversations, most of our contact was with aggressive or deceptive hawkers.  One of the joys in traveling is meeting people from other cultures and spending time learning from each other, and we are conditioned to expect that when someone is friendly and starts up a conversation, that it is genuine without ulterior motive.  In Cairo this was really not the case.  Over and over, we had pleasant conversations with people including those our own age, that blatantly or subtly, always (I really mean always) ended at someone’s shop being shown wares and expected to buy them. 

Of course, one can’t avoid the tourist things completely in Cairo, and despite the crowds and touts, we had to go to see the Pyramids at Giza.  Take the subway to Giza, and then take a taxi from the subway to the Pyramids complex.  While majestic, the pyramids are unfortunately empty shells at this point, with all of the artifacts long ago shipped off to a museum in London or Cairo.   Expensive tours of the inside of the structures are available, but offer little beyond saying you’ve done it.  Guards surround the structures to prevent further degradation, but they supplement their income by accepting bribes, so a little baksheesh and you can do anything short of using a hammer and chisel.  Hordes of tour buses filled the parking lot providing plenty of reason for the hawkers to descend on the area like locusts.

The other big tourist area is near the Egyptian museum along the Nile, where the area is actually barricaded off and only foreigners and those serving them are allowed.  Here one finds the trappings of the West with the Hilton, Hard Rock Café, TGIF and a multitude of other global chains.  One reason to go there though, is to ride in a felukka, a traditional sail boat still used to travel the Nile River.  Going out for about an hour at sunset is a stunning experience, gliding past the shores of this ancient river where so many others have gone before.  It’s a perfect ending to a trip into the fascinating and historic past that is the Egyptian capital of Cairo.

Spanish La Palma, Canary Islands

An island at the cultural crossroads of continents

 

 

As though it were caught floating halfway away from the Iberian peninsula of Europe towards South America and became lodged off the coast of western Africa, La Palma has something of each continent in its soul. The steepest island in the world at only 16 miles wide and 8000 feet high, La Palma also has enormous ecological diversity and a historic significance dating to 1492.

That was the year that the first Spaniard, Alfonso Fernández de Lugo, landed on La Palma. The island soon became a stopping ground for crews heading west to the New World. For Columbus it was a necessary stop-over for rest and supplies. The capital Santa Cruz grew to become one of the three most important ports in the Hispanic world. It also saw the departure of thousands of immigrants to South America, such as Cuba where the islanders set up tobacco plantations.

When we visited Santa Cruz we found a pleasant and relaxed city. It’s tidy and tiny with old colonial buildings. There are white churches accented with dark volcanic stone and quaint houses decorated with colorful wooden balconies. There’s a replica of Columbus’ ship the Santa Maria at the end of the Plaza de la Alameda, a delightful square shaded with old laurel trees.

It’s the island’s laurel trees that today make up Los Tilos, a protected biospheric reserve north of Santa Cruz. The name, Los Tilos, is derived from the Spanish word for smelly, since laurels stink when felled.

We joined a guided trek through Los Tilos and were astonished by the diversity of its greenery. Our guide Ilonka from Natour-Trekking explained that there are more than 2000 forms of vegetation and 70 plants unique to La Palma. The hills are a tapestry of fig trees, orange trees, palm trees, banana crops, vineyards, pines, laurels and dragon trees, a tree found only on the islands of the middle Atlantic and which can grow to be centuries old.

"Banana’s are boozers," explains Ilonka as we stop at a banana orchard in San Andres y Sauces, another colonial village with cobbled streets and narrow alleys. "One kilo of bananas needs 1000 litres of water." So avocados, which are much less demanding of the island’s water supplies, are slowly replacing banana farming.

For now the island is covered by huge patches of banana land, with the gigantic leaves swaying in the wind. Some of the fields are covered in plastic to prevent the heavy leaves from bruising the bananas, but as a local restaurateur tells us, bananas cultivated in this way are less tasty.

And taste, it turns out, is a specialty here. We encountered our tastiest treats during our hikes on the western side of the island, known as the sunnier side. As we approached a small almond farm the farmer’s wife appeared with satchels of roasted, sugared almonds for us to buy. At Tazacorte, a genteel village with bright, arty street furniture, we drank sugar cane juice pressed through an old-fashioned hand-mill. It gave us that extra kick needed to climb the cliff for a panoramic view.

The goats we saw roaming the northwestern hills produced the best delight of all: goat cheese roasted over pine-brush and topped with a typical Canary Islands sauce called mojo verde. The crushed coriander and garlic sauce combines tantalizingly with the smoky flavour. La Palma’s goat cheese is so fine because of the very diversity of greens the goats can freely graze.

These pampered goats also have spectacular views of the island’s most majestic feature, theCaldera de Tarubiente. This snowy peak is an extinct 5-mile wide crater and the climax of the volcano trail that runs along the north-south spine of the island. The western winds cause clouds to pour over this ridge like milk spilling in slow motion. From here you can also see the tips of the other Canary islands Tenerife and La Gomera.

After all the trekking and fantastic sea views, we were ready for a day at the beach. At Los Cancajos, near Santa Cruz, the sand is very black from the volcanic explosions that formed the island. The lava-rich soil is also the reason for La Palma’s quality wine. With a bottle of malvasia—the wine that was once noted by Shakespeare—and anise-seeded bread, we enjoyed the view of Santa Cruz’sminiature skyline from the warm beach.

Very few ships still dock at Santa Cruz. There are ferries from the Spanish mainland and some afternoon day-trippers from the other Canary islands. All this means that it’s a pretty peaceful place. It‘s the rich history, food and colors—from the black sand beaches to its white peaks and the green in between—that gives La Palma its unique flair.

Sun Drenched Sicily, Italy

Modern Adventures amid Echoes of the Ancients

 

 

Standing in the Sicilian sun with your feet washed by the waves of the Tyrrhenian Sea, it’s easy to forget that there’s more to the tri-corner island than beauty. The beaches are magnificent—turquoise waters stretching out to the horizon, soft sand, gentle waves and some of the clearest water in the world. In the distance, on the rockier portions of the coast, volcanic rock juts out of the sea, its dark color and jagged edge adding drama to the vista.

Inland, the hills rise up and greet the sun, patched with golden fields of grain, vibrant citrus orchards, and the vineyards that produce Sicily’s fragrant nero d’avola wines. The skies are blue, the weather is warm, and somewhere, a few steps down a narrow street, someone is rolling fresh pasta to tempt you back from the shore. 

There’s no mistaking Sicily for part of mainland Italy. Though Sicily has been officially part of Italy for nearly 150 years, it has also been ruled in turn by Greeks, Romans, Arabs, and Normans, and the island has kept the flavors of each passing wave of conquerors. Only a few blocks beyond the monuments to Vittorio Emanuele II outside the train station in Palermo are palaces and churches with the domes, mosaics, and geometric loveliness of medieval Arab architecture.

Baroque details line graceful, decaying buildings that shade sprawling markets and tanned children playing soccer in the streets. Most visitors come to Sicily for the weather: the climate is warm year-round, and in the summer months the sunshine is constant and temperatures hover around 86 degrees Fahrenheit. But in Sicily, history, culture, and natural wonders are layered on so thick that the trouble is in choosing the adventure, not finding it. 

One adventure worth having, though, is a voyage to the Aeolian Islands off the north coast. The ancient Greeks and Romans called these islands the home of the winds, and their breezes offer some relief from the constant beat of the sun. One boasts the forge of the fire god himself: Vulcano, a volcanic island reachable by ferry or hydrofoil with sulfur baths and dark umber beaches.

Here, the intrepid and long-winded can climb to the top of the sleeping volcano that spewed forth much of the island and peer into the crater once said to be the entrance to Hades. Though it hasn’t erupted in a century, Vulcano’s main crater is far from extinct, its peak smoking with sulfur from multiple exhaust holes and the giant divot of its mouth still muddy-looking and dangerous.

The rock that surrounds the crater is as brittle and sharp as ceramic. Signs warn that hikers should spend no more than a few minutes at the top, lest the fumes intoxicate or poison them. Still, with the wind blowing freely on the sweat spent making it up, the feeling and the view are well worth the scorching hour-long climb.

While the ancient Greeks assigned their gods’ homes on the outer islands, though, they worshiped them on Sicily itself. And after experiencingVulcano’s primordial power, you can remind yourself of the force of human culture in the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento. Here a complex of Greek temples was hewn from the native red sandstone and erected on a ridge overlooking the countryside, with the hazy cerulean smudge of the Mediterranean visible below the swell of the fields. Modern Agrigento rises to one side, and majestic sandstone forms cascade down the slope, linked by a pale road the Romans called the Sacred Way. 

Each temple has its own appeal. The temple to Hera offers the best view and perhaps the most picturesque profile, perched atop the high point on the temples’ ridge. The sanctuary to Concordia is nearly intact despite the twenty-odd centuries since its construction, and dark shadows hide its inner depths even at the height of the day.

The temple of Zeus, meanwhile, is massive and almost completely destroyed, its ruins now poetically crumbling courtyards and staircases among the aloes and olive trees. The temple of Heracles demands humility, one row of its massive columns still standing and each one three times as wide around as the arm span of the average man. Together, the complex inspires awe—after two millennia, its structures are not only standing, but ethereally beautiful and seemingly indestructible. 

Sicily’s mysteries are too many and too varied to explore in one short trip. But like the striking beauty of the island itself and the cultural marks so many have made on it, the memory of them will surely endure.

Tracking Gorillas in Rwanda

Visit the last mountain gorillas in their Rwandan haven

 

 

Encountering the last mountain gorillas face-to-face is one of the most memorable wildlife experiences I have ever known. Only a few hundred of these endangered giants survive in the remoter parts of the highlands shared between Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo.

Although the primates live in protected national parks, the Rwanda tourist office organises some restricted gorilla-tracking visits. I simply could not pass up such an opportunity! Even though the fee is hefty ($250 plus another $25 to enter the park), it is the price to pay for ecotourism, since the revenue goes towards conservation efforts and local community projects.

As soon as possible, I headed north from Kigali, the capital, on the "Virunga express", a service of Toyota mini-vans commonly used as public transport. The only white person in the van, squeezed in between way more passengers than the van was conceived for, I spent the three-hour long ride admiring the view.

Known as the "land of thousand hills", Rwanda is a country of understated beauty. Even the steepest hills are terraced, with tiny plots quilting the reddish-brown earth. Shimmering eucalyptus trees line the roads. Finally we reached the small town of Ruhengeri, above which loomed the huge mass of the Karisimbi volcano, turning blue in the late afternoon light.

The next morning before sunrise, while the surrounding volcanoes were still veiled in a rosy mist, I shared a ride with other tourists to the Parc National des Volcans. The park was the base for Dian Fossey, who studied the primates here in the Virunga mountain range for two decades, as recounted in her biography "Gorillas in the mist".

At the entrance, we were divided into small groups of 8 people and assigned guides. Each guide is in touch by walkie-talkie with trackers on the slopes of the volcano, to guide the visitors towards the few groups of gorillas who have been habituated to human presence. We set off along pastures and fields, then into the thick rainforest. We trudged up muddy paths. We clawed our way through thickets of bamboo. We clambered over fallen trunks. We sweated. At last, after hiking more than two hours, we reached a ridge. Ahead of us lay the crater of the dormant volcano, covered in thick, lush vegetation.

"The gorillas are down there," said the guide, pointing to what looked like impenetrable green. Working our way down, we came across the trackers. The family of a dozen individuals that they had been following was just a little further on, so it was time to prepare for our encounter. Drop our rucksacks here. Take nothing but cameras, flash off. No pointing. No shouting. No touching the animals. And our hushed group marched ahead excitedly.

All of a sudden, my first gorilla was there. Yes, right there! A mere three steps ahead, just off the path. An enormous mass of coarse black fur, squatting peacefully, her brown eyes gazing in our direction. With her head cocked inquisitively to the side, it looked like she was slightly amused. I walked right past, snapping photos.

Then we spotted a pair of juveniles playing in a clearing. They were instantly recognisable as youngsters by the hair standing straight up from their heads, like teenagers' brush cuts. They picked at each other, rolled over, showing their little potbellies, scratched, nibbled at shoots. A small female observed a fern leaf she had pulled, obviously considering whether to snack on it.

All were totally unperturbed by their awed visitors. In fact, they quite plainly ignored us. For us, on the other hand, it was a moment of great intimacy with the gorillas, as if we were peeking through their living room window. Several metres away, I noticed a large black mass climbing up a bamboo stalk, which inevitably started to bend more and more until the gorilla and its perch both came crashing to the ground.

Then a tracker pointed out the silverback, the dominant male of the group. Its pointy head looked so massive that I figured I couldn't have circled it with my arms – had I wanted to approach the formidable beast. That would have been unwise, of course, since the silverback is the leader of his group, watching over the females and juveniles during rest sessions and will defend them fiercely.

Before we knew it, our allotted hour with the gorillas was over. Still wonderstruck, we made our way down the mountain, leaving the gentle giants to their quiet lives.

Solitude in South Island, New Zealand

Exploring the Abel Tasman Coastal Trail

 

 

Hiking, or ‘tramping’, is a popular activity in New Zealand.  Beautiful beaches, snow capped peaks, and clear blue streams all can be found inside the country’s national park system.  The Abel Tasman National Park, located on the remote northwest corner of the south island, is often missed by tourists.  My solitary experience of walking the 32 mile (51km) coastal trail and seeing hardly anyone except Mother Nature herself was an amazing experience.

It should be noted that the coastal trail, while well-maintained, offers little in the way of facilities or mobile phone coverage.  Walkers should be prepared with food and drink, proper footwear, cold/wet weather gear, and first aid supplies.  You must also carry a map and research coastal tides prior to departure in order to complete the length of the route safely.  
My route took me from south to north, which is the most common and easiest to link in with public transport; there are other combinations you might find more suitable.  

Department of Conservation huts are the only accommodation available in most parts of the park; they must be booked well in advance, especially in summer, and they are minimally appointed so be sure to pack appropriately.  They have showers and toilets but no hot water.  The huts do have kitchens but without any gas/electric, cutlery, pans, or other necessities – you will need to bring it all with you.  Sleeping arrangements are bunk beds; take a sleeping bag and a pillow.  

Getting there is the first challenge.  Most fly direct into Christchurch from Australia or Auckland.  If you are travelling from Wellington there is a ferryservice to Picton.  From either Picton or Christchurch you will need to take a bus to Nelson – known as the ‘gateway to Abel Tasman’ – or to Mouteka, which lies near the edge of the park.  I prefer Nelson as there is plenty of accommodation choice, reasonably priced supermarkets, and a few good restaurants.  Many of the hostels in Nelson will rent out any essential provisions you may have forgotten.

Another bus will take you to the start of the route, a raised walkway in Marahau.  Upon departing from here, the trail soon heads uphill and into forest, although the path remains steady and clear at all times.  In no time at all, you will feel as if civilization has been left completely behind.   The track is lined with various types of ferns, including the silver fern, a widely used symbol of New Zealand.

Your first decision point comes high along the path above a tidal estuary near Anchorage Bay and Torrent Bay.  There are plenty of beaches to be explored further along, so unless you are spending the night here, I suggest the high route where you can see more luscious greenery and find several suitable places to lunch.    This direction turns decidedly inwards and upwards, offering wonderful vistas before heading downward into Bark Bay.   After dropping off your gear at the hut, head straight for the beach.  The golden sand and crystal blue waters never felt so good after a long day of walking.  

Leaving Bark Bay, the route is at first quite steep, and then levels out.  The water starts to become even clearer, the sand more golden, and the forests more green.  As there are few kayakers beyond Bark Bay, your views are only interrupted by a seal or passing water taxi.  Tonga Beach, with its golden-yellow sands, is a great lunch stop but this is a tidal crossing so be sure to plan ahead.  

Further beyond, you will cross a chain-link suspension bridge – not for the light of heart, but it is the only way across.  Awaroa is a natural stopping point due to the estuary and the plentiful accommodation.  Huts are available here as well as the Awaroa Lodge, a luxury hotel complete with restaurant.  Be sure to have a meal at the hotel, as the food is delicious and the bar is well-stocked, including Kiwi wines and beer.  Awaroa’s white, pristine beach is covered with thousands of intricate and colorful seashells.

Leaving Awaroa requires good timing as this is the deepest of tidal crossings along the trail – the ground is covered with shells so do not go barefoot.  Afterwards it is an easy trek to Totaranui, where you can buy yourself an ice cream in the caravan park or relax on the beach.  There is also the option to spend the night here but I suggest continuing north to Whariwharangi where you can experience the exhilaration of reaching the end of the world – although it is just the end of the south island, as well as the end of the coastal trail.

Although you might not be in a rush to get back to civilization, it’s good to know your options.  From Whariwharangi you can take the Abel Tasman inland trail, which is another 23 miles (37.5 km) back to Marahau.  Otherwise you will need to head back to Totaranui for a water taxi or coach service back to Marahau and then any onward destination.

Enchanted Rock, Texas

Climbing with the spirits

 

 

Nils and I were a few miles past Llano when the tip of Enchanted Rock appeared, a sliver of pink granite suddenly sprouting from the horizon. We had been driving west for hours, watching the greenery of Texas' hill country gradually give way to parched flatland. Now, as its granite dome rose over the highway like a miniature Uluru, there was something uncanny about Enchanted Rock.

Enchanted Rock has its fair share of ghosts. In his history The Enchanted Rock, author Ira Kennedy writes that nearby Tonkawa believed that the spirits of the dead roamed the mountain, while the Comanche told stories of ghost fires and unearthly groans. In the imaginations of Texan treasure hunters, Enchanted Rock was a place of fantastic riches, packed with lost Spanish mines and fat veins of ore.

Nils and I had come to Enchanted Rock with a humbler goal. As the second-largest rock dome in the United States, Enchanted Rock is a prime destination for climbing in all its forms, from casual hiking to technical climbing. For Nils, a climbing wall regular and one of my best friends, the chance to do some real scrambling and caving had just looked too good to pass up.

It was about 10:30 AM when we started our hike to the summit, but the trail was already crowded. Some groups had small children in tow, and a few climbers had even brought their dogs. However, while the path itself wasn't difficult, the dry heat and complete exposure of the rock made for slow going. With no trees or other features to help us gauge height, the bare slope played tricks on our eyes. I felt like we were walking on a granite treadmill; no matter how far we climbed, we never seemed to get any closer to the summit.

In folk tales, the summit of Enchanted Rock is a kind of purgatory, an in-between place for souls burdened by crimes or grudges against the living. The Handbook of Texas relates the legend of a chief who supposedly suffered this fate as punishment for sacrificing his own daughter. According to the story, it was his spirit's ceaseless pacing that wore the divots in Enchanted Rock's surface.

Eventually, the trail leveled off into a broad plateau, and we found ourselves standing on top of Enchanted Rock. Below us, the land spread out like a road map, a patchwork of plains, two-lane highways and bare stone hills that stretched to the horizon in every direction. It was as if we had climbed onto the roof of the desert. We spent a few minutes snapping pictures in the intense heat before heading back down.

Our next stop was Enchanted Rock Cave, a 350-meter long, 30-meter deep fissure running down one side of the rock's dome. For nearby Apache, Enchanted Rock Cave was home to the gan, powerful mountain spirits responsible for curing illness and protecting the Apache from their enemies. Unfortunately, the cave's easy accessibility has proven to be a conservation liability, as visitors with little or no experience with cave conservation have damaged the fissure's native fauna and left behind litter in the course of their explorations;

With the help of a trail map, Nils and I finally tracked down the cave entrance, a narrow gap in the rock just under the summit. While we checked our gear, a man with a thick South African accent argued with his son over whether or not to go inside.

"We don't have a torch," said the exasperated father. "I'm not going in without a torch."

After about half an hour of wriggling through paper-thin squeezes and chimneying down slick vertical drops, Nils and I agreed that this would not be the best cave for a family outing. Just getting ourselves and our packs through was taking a good deal of teamwork, not to mention a smidgen of muscle. Still, we were enjoying ourselves

"This actually makes an awesome rock slide," I commented to Nils at one point, as I slipped my way down a slab of granite. In the lantern's glow, I saw Nils grimace. We were deep inside one of the largest hunks of stone in the United States, and I had not chosen my words carefully.

"Dude," he groaned, "don't say 'rock slide'."

Among the many spirits said to have been swallowed into Enchanted Rock, there is one that came back to tell his tale. According to local legend, a Spanish conquistador once escaped a group of pursuing Tonkawa by climbing Enchanted Rock and vanishing. Mystified, the Tonkawa whispered that he had cast a spell over the mountain.

The conquistador had a different explanation. It was the mountain, he would later tell his comrades, that had cast a spell over him. For a while, he had become part of Enchanted Rock itself.

"When I was swallowed by the rock, I joined the many spirits who enchant this place." he said.

As I stood outside our tent and watched the sun set behind the cliffs that evening, I didn't need magic to understand how Enchanted Rock wove its spell. It was there in front of my eyes. It was the clouds of buzzards riding the last thermals from the cooling granite, the way that the rock faces seemed to grow and shift as dusk fell.